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Sunday, 22 June 2014

Everything good must come to an end...

The night out in Jyvaskyla was fun. We bussed into the city and walked up to a bar that seemed very local. Dark music and sketchy Finnish characters. Quite a few rounds went down there until the first game of the soccer world cup started at 11pm and a bunch of us filed over to the English bar around the corner that was playing it. The English bar was so much more welcoming than the Finnish one and I had a great time watching the game, watching the locals and hanging out with our passengers in a more formal situation (as opposed to campsites). Everyone was drinking 'long drinks' which they had found out at Santa's workshop are the real authentic drinks of Finland. they are a gin and grapefruit juice drink that is white like a really cloudy sprite and oh so sweet. I really liked them! Once the game finished I don't think we were quite sure what to do with ourselves and we went back to the first bar where many were still hanging out. People wanted to dance and so they went out exploring but I did a fail of a smoke bomb with 6 others and taxied back to the hostel. I say failed because I was trying to go off with just a few others and then all of a sudden we had enough of us for a maxi taxi. Back at the hostel it was my first night that I had a room to myself and Monika said she didn't sleep as well without me (she might have been lying) I however was in love with the peace! Don't worry though Mon, I still missed your chatter in the morning :)

Hello Helsinki!
I was up early to get into the hostel kitchen and check out my frittata and was cheering because all was good. Out in the raining morning I packed the lunches with Tom who was up especially early and we were able to pack everything down super early because we were having breakfast in the hostel! The first meal I hadn't served in 10 days! The drive down to Helsinki was not a long one, maybe 4 hours? We were in around 1pm and had a cool little driving tour where we got to go up a tower at the Olympic stadium, play with a musical statue in a park and visit a church hewn out of the rock around it and famed for its acoustics. It was actually a wonderfully calm and dare I say it, spiritual, church. Open, bright and natural, a place I enjoyed.

When we parked at the hostel I pretty much just put my bags down and ran out the door to find the nearest hospital in order to have the checkup that Oslo hospital told me that I needed done on my hand. What a saga that turned into. As briefly as possible, I walked a few kilometers to the nearest one, told the receptionist that I needed a check up x-ray done on my hand. She said sure and charged me 150 to have an appointment in an hour. I waited the hour and after 2 minutes in the doctors room he told me he couldn't do the x-ray because they don't have the machine! I got my money straight back thank goodness and caught a taxi over to the hospital he recommended.

In reception there they looked at me like I was stupid and told me that I had to go to the x-ray department. I waited there for a while until someone asked if I had the paperwork from the GP. I said no and she sent me 2 floors up to the GP. The reception there charged me the 150 again and I waited another hour to see the doctor who sent me back down to x-ray. Finally I got an x-ray taken. Then a lot of umming and ahhing went on with me in the middle of it until finally the doctor said to me that they couldn't even see a fracture! 'There is a little spot where there might be something' he said but that really it was all fine and healed. I tentatively asked if that meant that I could have the cast off early? He told me no, and that the cast I had on was so good that they didn't want to put a new one on it. Happy that I was healed I went out and paid reception a few more euros (the whole time going 'its ok, you are going to claim it back') before hopping in with a very cheery taxi driver and I was home just after 7.

I should also mention how impressed I was that everyone I spoke to had fluent English and most were able to read the note from the first hospital that was in Norwegian! Try going into an Australian hospital speaking Finnish and flashing a Norwegian letter and see how far you get!

Being all fancy out on the town
I got dressed up that night and a bunch of us went out for dinner. We ended up in quite a fancy restaurant where we only felt a little out of place where we ate things like snails, raw prosciutto like deer meat and a lot of good solid meat. Again we went out to see the soccer after. Just 6 of us made it to a pumping bar where the Netherlands was well on their way to giving Spain a walloping. It was a great game but it couldn't tempt me to stay out for Australia's game at 1am. As we walked in to the hostel I saw them singing the anthem, sweat already dripping from their faces in the humidity and was happy for the cool weather we were having.

The second day in Helsinki dawned without rain so I browsed the city with Tom, checking out the cool main shopping street (still looking for a Norse jumper) a Russian Church in full service and finally we had a few rounds on the Ferris wheel down at the harbour. The sun was even smiling down at us a we boarded the ferry at about 1pm. We are all ferry experts at this point and very quickly had settled into the favorite pastime of the trip, cards. Moose, Tom and I also managed to play all the games in the arcade, but mostly we played cards. 2 hours was all it took to reach Tallinn which is part of the reason that so many Finnish people manage to find the time to cross the waters in search of booze.

One of the liquor stores - SuperAlko!

The majority of the passengers on the ferry had huge empty duffel bags or collapsible trolleys and when we saw them on the other side coming back, it was evident what the space was being used for. Alcohol ruled this ferry line. Cases and cases of the stuff, apparently much cheaper than you can get in Helsinki. it was quite strange really, the port is surrounded by bottle shops, and our hotel. Again when we got checked in I was on a mission. I left Monika with our new joining passengers and ran in to town in search of souvenirs. It only took me a few hours to put together a little show bag with some gifts from Estonia for each of the passengers and I was just in time to meet the passengers back in the old town. Everyone had dressed up for the occasion and were loving their first sight of Tallinn.

Tallinn
They were about to love it even more when we got to our restaurant for the night 'Olde Hanza'. This restaurant is spectacular. To start with everyone is in medieval costume and acting the part. The restaurant is all big wooden ceilings, candlelit rooms, tapestries, earthenware mugs, bowls and plates. We had our hands washed for us before the meal and our bread was officially broken and the feast began. It could have started and ended with the appetizers and I would have been happy. Fat green olives, chicken liver pate, onion jam, mixed forest berries, soft cheese with dill, capsicum relish and the most fragrant, soft, warm and wholesome breads that you have ever eaten and which we ripped apart with our hands as instructed. Mains included lentils, barley, squash, rabbit stew, salmon, bear and elk sausages and finally there was apple strudel for dessert. The wines and beers were unlike anything we had tasted before and the entertainment of julz's :) dance off with a Finnish man on the next table, whilst being quite worrying, was definitely entertaining. I ate my own body weight in food I'm pretty sure and was in actual pain whilst I paid the bill. Definitely a highlight.

Olde Hanza
Wade and Julz :) at Olde Hanza
Monika had a shots bar to take us to next but I was too full to even fit in one single shot. I had settled by the time we went to the club later though and was so excited when we got in and saw that they were painting people up in neon paint. Our group went crazy. Everyone had the biggest grins on their faces as they danced and danced. I didn't think it was possible but when 'drinking from the bo(ttle)' came on the excitement picked up another notch and I thought it was a particularly memorable moment. I had to tear myself away at 2:30, knowing I would only have a few hours sleep before getting up to see people off. It was the sensible thing to do, and for some reason I am often quite sensible.

Boys on the town :)
First I had to put a drunk passenger speaking fluent French to bed and then I managed to squeeze those few hours of sleep in before getting up to see off Mel and Anna and give them their presents. I packed the others when I went back up to my room and sat in reception for several hours giving them out and collecting feedback forms whilst passengers rotated around me. Monika was meeting even more joining passengers and taking them on a walking tour so I woke up those who looked like they were going to sleep through their checkout time and made my way in to town to meet everyone at town hall for lunch (which we were paying for).

Waiting for lunch
Delicious elk soup, forest animal pies and apple pies was what was on the menu and again they went down a treat. These guys love their meat! Farewells were done at the end of lunch and the remaining of us arranged to meet back here for dinner. We had a few things to do back at the hotel first, Monika and I researched restaurants, did accounts, had a great chat to Welshy who told me all about my next bit of work coming up (more about that soon!) and went shopping for the next days lunch. 

Moose got just a small beer tasting platter...
he restaurant we found was called the beer hall, nothing crazy, but again it had servers dressed in costume and a huge selection of Estonian old style food. Meg touched me by making a thank you speech on behalf of the other passengers for my cooking and company and some of the other passengers had even bought me a card and earrings which was totally unexpected and really touched me. Monika and I let them all go off after dinner to drink, with no desire to follow, we were both like the walking dead by the time we were back at the hotel.

These sweeties
I got a shock when I woke up this morning and my room was devoid of Monika. She had packed and left without me even hearing her! I jumped up and dressed and ran downstairs to say goodbye to everyone. There were lots and lots of hugs and I almost lost it, especially when meg was hugging me but she told me to pull it together and I did. A sunny day in Tallinn and several hours of skyping my family and Claire almost distracted me from everyone leaving, but I really wish that I could have continued the trip, just for the reason of hanging out with all those new friends.






Colin and Wade loved eating like Vikings

Monika and I

Tallinn old town

What a maze!

Town hall




Forest animal pies


Gates to old town

Market in town hall square

Saturday, 21 June 2014

Tysfjord to Jyvaskyla (And I can actually pronounce those names!)

Pavlova
12/6
At Tysfijord we ate shepherds pie, soup and pavlova and it went down a treat. The camp, like many of the others, sat on the edge of a huge lake and looked out at beautiful mountains. We had more Viking Olympics games. This time the groups were given words like Sandcastle, cheese, Vikings, Topdeck and Umbrella and were told to reconstruct a song to make them fit. From the quest for the Viking cup to the fresh prince of Norway and Moosian Rhapsody there were some great ones. We then watched them stuff marshmallows into their mouths until they gagged (the winner had 16!!). We had an orange necking race like I used to play when I was 14 and finally an hour of lollipop sucking to conclude the day. The night then still being young, or at least light, we continued to play cards out on a picnic table by the lake until the cold set in like it hadn't before (we were surprised but had obviously forgotten that we had crossed the arctic circle today).

Teams song writing
Up and off early in the morning as we have been every day this trip (seriously, who has their bags to coach half an hour before the time on the what's on sheet? Our group, every time.)

A bit of a misty drive today
We caught a ferry first thing the next morning (so many fjords!) on our way up to Steinkjer. I had burnt lunch this morning and a week later the tent still smells of burnt soup but I quickly whipped up a new one. and I hoped no one would notice until I realised that I had to get people to clean the black and sticky bottom of the pot. Oh well, I think they laughed at me. Our hot lunch stop was at an arctic wildlife park where we sat on big pine logs to eat and where just in time for the feeding tour. The zoo was basically a piece of wild land with fences put up on it just going straight over the top of streams and up and down hills. We saw the lynxes, arctic foxes, wolverines, wolves and bears getting fed which was pretty cool. We watched and laughed as a muskox almost took out Julz :) and made our way back on to the coach with a new mascot. Pepper the bear.

A Lynx
Arctic foxes (malting in the summer)

Pepper the bear
At camp there was an event that I had been looking forward to for ages. The polar plunge. Monika told us that normally it happened off a 5mt high bridge into a river on the edge of the campsite. However there had been a lot of melting snow recently and the river was too rough for us to jump into safely. We all scoffed a bit at that I think until we saw it and went, geez that is swift. Luckily we could still get in to the same river in a little bend where we could jump off the edge. The sauna was right next to us in a cute little cabin thing that could fit about 8-10 at a squeeze. I bandaged my arm up. Cling wrap, tape, bag, tape, cling wrap again and finally a lot more tape. Some one asked was I going to chop it off and send it home with that amount of packaging?! I plunged into the shallow water, someone captured my perpendicular lunge and called me the flying salmon. I still hit the bottom gently but I couldn't feel the graze of silt and weed because my skin had been instantly numbed. I jumped up and out with my arms clenched to my front as I had no idea where my swimmers were but I was too cold to stop and care too much. I was gasping and ran to the sauna, the first in, and dumped a whole lot of water on the coals as others quickly joined me. It didn't actually take all that long to warm up completely and then the sauna filled up and I left to jump in again. I thought the second time might be better and at least I knew what was coming but it was still cold. One more sauna session and I went off to get dry (including a hairdryer session with my cast) and cook dinner. I did a particularly hot curry and poppadum's which everyone loved as it rained though dinner and they all needed a bit of fire in their bellies. We ate under tiny verandas and in the bins of the coach. The after dinner activities mostly involved squishing lots of people into the bins and chatting. After I left I even saw footage of a naked grenade happening (Julz :) of course) which was hilarious! (A naked grenade is where a bunch of people have already been locked in the luggage bins but aren't reacting enough, so Julz :) gets naked and the doors are very quickly opened as he hops in and then locked again behind him. Havoc)

The little sauna
All wrapped up
From Steinkjer we went up to Russenes and Nordkapp! This was another highlight of the trip. We had just a few short stops including one at a beautiful lookout where we took some great photos. We played a song guessing game that took hours out of our day. Seeing who could guess the song the fastest. Some stars shone out in this test and most of us had a lot of fun with it. We also watched a strange Norwegian comedy which had some humour that was off as well a casual racism so it went down a little strangely.  At Russenes the camp was spread out all over the shop but we got in early and so I had time to play some soccer before dinner which I had been looking forward to. I realised that I was out of onions and so I bought some from the cafe on the campsite but that was about the only way in which they were helpful. Dinner was risotto and soup and then a quick pack down before we got in a shuttle bus up to Nordkapp, the most northerly point of Europe.

Driving up to Nordkapp
Stopped to take pictures of the deer
With my awesome crew
We drove through herds and herds of reindeer for the 2 and a half hours it took to get up there. I played cards with Mark and Julz :) and Tom as we watched the scenery get more and more moon like. We rounded over smooth hills coated white and watched the clouds around us appear to be at the same height as us. There was a strange hush on the coach as if we all realised that this was pretty special. We got to the guest center at 11pm wearing more layers than I had for the whole trip so far and still feeling the chill. Our first stop was the giant globe out at the furthest point of the center. It was a majestic sight in the setting sun and we got lots of great pictures. I eventually tore myself away and went to stand at the fence to admire the stairway of sunlight being reflected back to the golden orb in the sky. I had a quiet moment or two watching the wind buffet the water like wind across silk  and contemplating life a bit until it was time to join back in with the others chatting and fun. We walked around the barren landscape drinking in the wildness of it. Eventually we went inside to warm up with a coffee and some Norwegian fare. Which basically means a lot of fish. Raw fish. I haven't eaten raw fish before and I had to get Jake to help me, first he cut it into pieces then he helped me eat it. To be completely honest I didn't feel too crash hot afterwards... Maybe fish just isn't my thing.

The top of the world
We headed back out to watch the sun not set at midnight. Which was interesting if a little anticlimactic, then I had time to run around the center looking at the museum exhibits which were not all that before our shuttle bus left at 1am. I chatted with Tom the whole time otherwise I would have fallen asleep. It was odd, of course it was still totally light and I think that is what was keeping my body awake even though I was slowly getting that pain that come with super tiredness. when we went inside the 8km long tunnel it was dark and by the time we got to the other end most of the bus was totally asleep and the sunlight at the other side was a complete shock. We got home at 3 and straight to bed. One of my most memorable nights, I loved every part of it.

 
Midnight sun

Brunch wasn't until 11am the next morning. We had beans, eggs with bacon, porridge, pancakes, sausages, mushrooms and maybe some other things... It went down a treat and everyone had a friendly morning meal before the next Olympic game was announced. For the closing ceremony that night each group was to go out in to nature and make a costume for one of their members. I cleaned up the tent and headed off with Mark, Meg, Tom, Brooke and Amy down to the beach.

We built a Tepee
We began by collecting crab shells and fishing line and ended up with bark, shields, a lantern and even eventually a whole anchor. We explored abandoned sheds, made tepees, skimmed rocks and crossed rivers for a good few hours before we headed back with our finds.

Bush bashing in Norway
Meg and Tom with their finds
Next I had to make a quick shopping trip to the servo 500meters down the road. I had a lot of helpers join me and I think I only worried them a little by saying that I had no idea what was for dinner, just that we would find something there hopefully. They started joking about pringles for dinner and I said maybe that would be the case. Of course it wasn't, my notes told me there would be burgers, buns and ice cream here and I had stocked up in Berlin with beetroot, pickles and other burger toppings. The passengers did have some fun when we discovered that there was not enough normal burgers and they asked if I could buy the reindeer ones? If they would eat them then I would buy them and so we came to have reindeer burgers for dinner in Norway. I took some time out to sort out laundry and accounts and when I was done some of the passengers were asking me about cooking some rhubarb they had found growing on the beach. Having never cooked it before I told them they were free to cook it themselves and when I next saw them there was a massive amount of rhubarb simmering with sugar they had bought themselves and I was very impressed. Dinner was super easy and there was enough rhubarb for everyone and I had custard, cream and ice cream to go with it! Amazing!

It was just beginning to rain and the costumes came out and were amazing. Only to be described by pictures.
Awesome costumes (they were freezing)

The closing ceremony for the games was to be a final punch party down by the lake. However the rain had set in and it was not particularly nice. Monika had all the pax gathering wood for a fire as a final game and we ended up with half a forest down by our hanging fire pit! The final winners of the games once the points were all tallied up were the Lynx and as we built up the fire the rain died down. Moose discovered the shattered remains of a Lego creation in the coals and washed and cared for them whilst we all laughed and made up stories about where it had come from. He had the last laugh, ending up with an almost whole tow truck after an hours construction work. They sky only got lighter as the clouds cleared and it ended up being brighter at 11pm than it had been at 8pm. Then the punch party started getting out of hand. In the end the solution was just to leave and go to bed to convince those who were out of hand that the party was over and that they should also leave. I was in bed at 11:30! Others weren't, apparently the chaos went on all night. It was not a happy bunch that got on the coach in the morning.

The symbolic burning of the Viking shield
Lucky it was just a long driving day and they all slept for the whole time apart from when we had quietest lunch I have done. Mick dropped the pax at Santa's house and we went a few kms up the road to the first 'real' shopping centre that I have seen in weeks! I felt like I was back at home at Panno :) Mick and I bought a huge amount of salmon which was exciting, I had given the pax the choice on the coach to choose between salmon or chicken fjord for dinner and only 3 people didn't want the salmon! I did not feel confident cooking something that people were so excited about and that I don't even like to eat or cook and I had already discussed with Mick that as a seafood lover he would be in charge of that which calmed me a lot. The campsite was nice and the best set up for my tent that I have ever seen. Half a floor, right next to a sink and tables and just on a huge green common for chilling. We chucked on a very fun mix of Andy's and got to preparing a caprese salad, mash, broccoli with chilli and butter and of course the salmon. Everyone loved the Salmon, it didn't take long and lunch for the next day was done as well, and then I was free to play soccer! I had been looking forward to this for ages and went all out, finding that I am no where near as fit as I was in high school and a few times thinking maybe I shouldn't have gone for this or that so hard, especially when Moose took out my ankle. All I could think was that I was close to going back to hospital again. Oops, oh well it all ended well and I was so hot and sweaty that I taped up my arm and went and jumped in the river with Moose to cool down. It was actually an amazing decision and I felt great for it afterwards. Shower, accounts and bed, an early enough one for us.

Mick cooks Salmon
The morning shone bright and we got an early departure in and again just drove for most of the day. Finland's landscape is nowhere near as interesting as Norway's, I would say it is closer to Germany. Flat, wooded and dotted with lakes. We put on a crazy Norwegian movie about troll hunting that I fell asleep in (as usual) actually I slept most of the day, waking up hazy each time. It also rained most of the day and was still raining as we set up the tent in the hostel car park in Jyvaskyla. Not my favourite place to cook, in a car park, in the mud, in the rain but the last dinner went down well. A stew/casserole thing with cauliflower cheese and danishes for dessert. I was using the hostel oven for tomorrows lunch and it took more than double the time I had thought. We were going out on the town for the first time in a long time and so I had to leave and the lady assured me that she would take it (a frittata) out of the oven at 9.30 when she left and would leave it on the bench for me to get at 7 the next morning. This frittata was more work than was necessary. Oh well, its all a learning curve.

Signs at the arctic zoo

The first in the polar plunge went in with style!

Amanda and I can't get out quick enough

An interesting leap from Colin

Girls all in together

Walking on water

A scenic stop


Tom and Julz :)

Looking very cute


Jake and I posing together

Dinner at Ruseness

It was a selfie kind of night - With Mark

With Julz :)







Moosies


Moosies



Selfies with Meg

Selfies with Tom




My mixed fish plate




Exploring on our free day

Reindeer jerky that smelt too much like dog food to be enjoyable